When determining the required power, it is always best to contact professionals who calculate the required power accurately on the basis of heat losses and other variables. Determining the correct performance is the most important thing when choosing a fireplace insert or stove and we do not recommend undervaluing it. For orientation purposes, we can count on a worse-insulated house that 1 m³ will heat 50 W, for a newly insulated new building 25 W and 80 W in recreational facilities (cottages, etc.).
External air supply is recommended mainly in new buildings, so-called passive or eco-houses. Stoves need sufficient air supply for proper combustion, and in modern, well-sealed buildings, it may happen that the stove takes air from the interior until the air is "out". The stove then does not burn as it should and even in the building it is difficult to breathe.
There may be a problem with the hood, which may in some cases "pull" the chimney draft and the stove will then smoke into the room.
In older and not well-sealed rooms, the air recuperation caused by leaks in windows, doors, etc. is so large that the stove always has enough air without having to supply air from elsewhere.
With manual control, you control the air inlet flap by pulling / pushing it. For basic / electronic control, you also operate the air intake damper manually, but with the potentiometer on the front of the stove (left - right). The movement of the potentiometer is then projected into the damper position through the servomotor. In addition, the basic / electronic control uses a temperature sensor to measure the temperature of the water in the exchanger and, if the temperature in the exchanger increases, it automatically closes the air inlet flap and warns of overheating by means of an acoustic signal.
It always depends on the circumstances. Especially on the amount and type of fuel, as well as the amount of supplied air and also the chimney draft. In case of hardwood and closed air supply, the stove can burn for up to 8 hours.
If the stove smokes the room, there is usually a problem with too little chimney draft. If there is a small chimney draft, it is not able to "pull" the accumulated flue gas in the combustion chamber. Another problem may be incorrect stoking. Wood should only be attached when the fuel does not burn with a strong flame and the door must always be opened a little at a time to compensate for the pressures. Only then new wood should be attached.
All our stoves and fireplace inserts need a chimney draft of at least 12 Pa for a perfect function. The chimney sweep will measure the chimney draft with attached stove.
The problem is most often in undried fuel. Fuel should never contain more than 20% moisture. However, the problem may also be caused by a small chimney draft which is not able to suck up enough air for proper glass rinsing. Another problem may be the old door and glass seals that "squeeze out" over time, causing the stove to suck air through the door.
Our fireplace stoves and inserts are shown at our partners' in their stores throughout the Czech Republic. A list of our partners can be found in the SELLERS section. You can also see our products in our company shop in Broumov - we open every weekday from 8:00 to 16:30.
When buying a stove, where the chimney flap is not part of the structure, we always recommend to include this element in the flue. This flap then helps you to control the chimney draft and thus the burning in the stove or insert. Another solution is a chimney draft regulator, which regulates the chimney draft automatically according to the set value. Controllers operate on a very simple basis and are affordable.
All our heat exchanger products include a cooling loop as standard.
To connect the cooling loop, you need tap water and possibly drain to the stove / insert. It is also necessary to purchase a thermostatic safety valve which, based on the measured temperature in the exchanger, runs cold water into the loop.
In general, reducing the diameter of the flue gas outlet from the stove / insert is not recommended, as such reduction may result in a drastic reduction of the chimney draft and thus a lack of thrust for proper operation of the heater. However, in some cases this reduction is possible, but only after consultation with a professional (chimney sweep / heating engineer).
The sealing cords vary depending on their condition. Some cords should be changed every heating season, some can last up to five years. It is important to make sure that the sealing cord really seals properly - for example, by taking a sheet of paper and trying to close it in the door. If the cord works as it should, it will not be possible to pull the paper out because it will be held by the cord of the heater body.
To replace the sealing cord, remove the old seal, clean any residue of sealant or glue and dirt, degrease properly, apply a new glue and "seal" the new sealing line into the grooves, then allow the glue to harden according to the manufacturer's instructions.
It is forbidden to heat in the inserts and stoves provided with the hot-water exchanger when the hot-water exchanger is not filled. Doing so may void the warranty and, in the worst case, cause irreparable damage to the heater and personal injury.